Pommes Frites

When I first went to Pommes Frites (on 2nd Ave between 7th St and St. Marks), I was completely unaware of what I was about to experience.  Sure, the shoppe is advertised as a vendor of "Belgian fries", but who really cares?  Fries are fries.

I probably should have realized that I had stumbled across something entirely different as soon as I removed one perfectly crisp potato baton from the paper cone.  I did not know these fries were to be savored as the fries of Belgium.  I merely thought this third snack of the day was a world class and ingenious twist of the more well-known fries.  I can only hope that the powers-that-be can forgive me for my ignorance.

According to The One and Only Belgian Fries Website, six traits distinguish Belgian fries: freshly cut and irregularly shaped; cooked or fried twice; fluffy on the inside, crispy on the outside; a distinct potato taste; a thickness of at least 10 mm; and they should be served in a paper cone.

Clearly, I have not sampled many Belgian fries.  (Shame on me.)  But Pommes Frites' potatoes were fried to perfection, irregularly shaped, and oh so crisp.  My group of 8 ordered the regular cone of fries.  Yes, we had just sampled pastries from Veniero's and ice cream from The Big Gay Ice Cream Shop, but everyone ate a satisfactory helping of fries because the regular cone of fries is just so gosh darn large.  In addition to the usual mayonnaise dipping sauce, we also sampled the Honey Mustard Mayo, Pomegranate Teriyaki Mayo, and Sweet Mango Chutney Mayo dipping sauces.  The whole snack cost about $8 ($4.50 for the fries, another dollar for each of the tasty sauces).

So, huddled over a little table made for cone-encased fries and perched on wooden high chairs, my friends and I found the final bit of space in our stomachs and gorged ourselves on fries.

Merilu Pizza Al Metro

I do not think I will ever live long enough to fully appreciate everything that Hell's Kitchen has to offer.  Not only are there dozens and dozens of places to eat and drink, but I also cannot resist going to old favorites such as O'Flaherty's and Room Service whenever I am in the neighborhood.

pizza margherita

Thankfully, someone recommended Merilu Pizza Al Metro, so I bravely led a group of friends past bars, bakeries, and bistros to the little pizzeria on 9th Ave between 52nd and 53rd St.  Apparently, Merilu, the owner and mother of four, brought the recipes for the pizza from her home in Torino, Italy.  I interpret this as a divine indication that I should go to Torino.  And sample all pizzas.

The pizza was excellent, mostly due to their incredible sauce and thin crusts.  The guy behind the counter was nice and patient as I tried to overcome fatigue and place an intelligible order.  Overall, a slice of pizza margherita and a root beer cost less than $6.  There is a good chance that buying pizza from Merilu before bar hopping in Hell's Kitchen will become my new default activity.  Prepare accordingly.

Prosperity Dumpling

After The Week of Consumption (But Not Tuberculosis), I have no money.  When Planned Parenthood or GreenPeace or Human Rights Campaign tricks me into thinking they are asking for directions and instead asks for a monthly contribution of ten dollars, my denial is no longer based on the principle that giving out checking information on the street is risky but on the fact that I cannot overdraw.  Fortunately, I get paid on Friday.

Even though I have enough food in my kitchen to allow a comfortable hibernation for the next week, I appreciate variety.  And so, armed only with an unlimited subway card filched from my roommate and two dollars worth of laundry quarters, I cautiously made my way to Prosperity Dumpling in Chinatown.  I say "cautiously" because I dislike the B-D-F-M-Orange-Line Thing.  It confuses me: half the time, the uptown line is actually running west and half the time the uptown line is running in another direction.  More importantly, it splits where I do not want it to split.  I slowly navigated through streets that neither numbered nor lettered and finally found Prosperity Dumpling.

It was all worth it.  The irritating subway ride, the darkening streets, the gaggles of teenagers cutting me off while I tried to have a meaningful conversation with my sister.  I would do it again in a heartbeat made sluggish by too many fried dumplings.

With my sad fistful of eight quarters, I bought five dumplings and a healthy wedge of a sesame pancake as the same cluster of teenagers arrived and lined up behind me.  Suckers.

The five dumplings were fried to perfection and stuffed with pork and chives.  The skin of each dumpling was expertly fried to the crisp golden-brown that colors my dreams.  It tasted just good.  The pork and chives were blended well.  Prosperity Dumpling achieves the perfect pork-to-chive-to-soft dumpling skin-to-fried dumpling skin ration and costs $1.  Bravo.

The sesame pancake was delicious in the same way that green onion pancakes are delicious.  There is some flavor folded within the warm, doughy goodness that keeps me coming back for more.  Perhaps it is the sesame. Then again, that would be too simple.  This also cost $1.

If you only have $2 and your roommate's unlimited subway card, Prosperity Dumpling should be your only stop.

Sweetbox Cupcakes

Sweetbox Cupcakes, Guapos Tacos' roaming companion, also usually resides in the LOVE/JFK Park in Philadelphia.  Clearly the goods go fast; by the time Margaret and I talked each other into checking out the menu, many of the favorite cupcakes were gone.  This was probably a good thing because the two cupcakes we did sample were to die for and the decision process would have been that much more harrowing if we had had more options.

We bought a strawberries and cream cupcake and the other was chocolate hazelnut.  Each cost $3 (only $.25 more than a Magnolia cupcake!), but some of the other options were $2.50.  Either way, it was three dollars with which I easily parted.

Each cupcake was artfully baked and decorated.  Nevertheless, I experienced the slightest moment of skepticism when I saw the undeniable pinkness of the cake.  Oh, I of little faith!

The strawberry cake was clearly made with real strawberries because it somehow managed to convey the freshness of the fruit.  The chocolate hazelnut cupcake was just as good, if not as unusual.  Topped with chopped hazelnuts, the cake was chocolate and drizzled with a rich ganache.  It was the perfect combination of nuttiness and that deep chocolaty taste of which we always approve.

As we enjoyed our well-deserved treats, we listened to some incredible singers in the park.  For future reference, check this website for cultural events, performances, and exhibits hosted by Fairmont Park.

Guapos Tacos

I am beginning to think that food carts are going to take over the world.  From Portland (the land of food carts selling fried pie) to New York (the island of Wafels & Dinges and A-Pou's Taste Cart) and, as I recently discovered, Philadelphia.

Guapos Tacos, from what I can tell from their twitterings, generally plonks down in the LOVE Park (offically JFK Park) alongside Sweetbox Cupcakes (more on them later).  Margaret and I split an order of the Green Chili Chicken Tacos.  Unlike many other tacos, these were lighter although it is hard to explain exactly how.  The shells were not as fried-to-crispness and maybe that was it.  Or maybe it was the radish on top that completely threw me a loop.  Regardless, the meal was delicious and worth the wait in the line under the radiating sun.

green chile chicken tacos

The order of tacos cost $6, which we were only too happy to give to the food cart covered in a geometric pattern of beer bottle caps.

if the wait is a little long, try identifying all the beer caps

Tommy DiNic's

The powers that be have decided that pork is forgotten more often than not, and that is a tragic situation that we here aim to rectify through lots o' pork.

Tommy DiNic's is in the Reading Terminal Market on Arch St and 11th St N in Philly.  They sell the best pulled pork in all of Philadelphia as demonstrated by the many framed and laminated reviews within sight of the register (one review proclaimed capitally, "PIG OUT!") and I cannot say that I disagree.

While I do not totally understand how pulling and shredding the pork alters the flavor, I think that the pork can be pulled is in fact a symptom of a slow-cooking process that tenderizes the meat in that succulent way.  If that is the case, the good ol' boys at Tommy Dinic's have mastered the slow-cooking process.

This was one of my first meals in Philadelphia, and it did not disappoint.  Each sandwich is huge and costs $7-$8.  Order from the man at the register who is a savant for orders and receipts and faces and proudly march to the bar, a table of your choosing, or out into the street.  Margaret and I preferred to stay inside to avoid the heat and listen to the pianist nearby.  We may or may not have scoured the surroundings from our vantage point for the next target (dessert) despite the ever increasing strain on our belts.

the italian sausage - just as good, not as famous

pulled pork with grilled peppers

Places I Wanted to Eat: Philadelphia & DC & Baltimore

Thanks mostly to my grandmother's wanderlust and tendency to settle in remote villages and my parents own traveling aspirations, I am fortunate enough to be twenty years old and fairly well travelled.  However, this is the first trip that I have planned, paid for, and embarked on by myself.

Notice the "paid for" part.  As a direct result, I managed to survive eight days on $32.04 worth of food.  In other words, I passed up on eating out.  It was not that difficult...  My meals were perhaps not balanced, but I was always satisfied (rice goes a looong way).  Still, here is a list of places to eat that I have yet to sample, although their reputations DO precede them:

(There may be a few cultural events or bookstores thrown in here as well because I cannot resist..)

so many books! so many books
that I am now carting across the coast!

Washington, DC

• Ben's Chili Bowl (apparently they ship to all 50 states as well)
• Julia's Empanadas
• On the Fly (a fleet of eco-friendly SmartKarts)
• Johnny's Half Shell
• Chinatown Express
• Dukem Ethiopian
• Sundays 3-9pm in Meridian Hill Park for a drum circle and African dancing
• The MLK Dedication.  I was heartbroken that Irene ripped this experience from me.

I actually did eat at Dukem Ethiopian

Philadelphia

the good men of Tommy Dinic's

• Tommy Dinic's
• The Book Corner

Mercifully, Mary and Margaret were there in Philly to impart their wisdom and experience, so I will have to go again to expand my bucket list!  If that makes sense.

Baltimore

• Red Emma's (a cafe and bookstore)
• Faidley's crab cakes in Lexington Market
• Free music IN Lexington Market
• Batimore Farmers' Market
• Zeke's Coffee (it truly is unbelievable what $14/lb coffee grounds can do)

motto? read, revolt

If you are ever in a position to do any of these things, do not hesitate!  These are recommendations from international travelers, hostel (hostile? hah!  No, everyone was really nice!) staff, and the local city-dwellers.

Vik's Chaat Corner

Somehow the entire summer passed by me while I went from cooking daily to not cooking at all and eating chickpeas out of a can (that wasn't actually me, but it conveys my point).  Much to my culinary consternation and gastronomical aggravation, I had no time to cook for eight weeks.  My time was ever so delicately sucked up by three bridge-crossings a day because of a class at UC Berkeley four days a week and work at UCSF five days a week.

my house is in this valley, SF is the little bubble of buildings
on the horizon, and Berkeley is on the far left of the horizon
YAY TRIANGLES

The class (Data Structures and Programming Methodology, for those of you that care) was made entertaining by my more than delightful lab partner, and I was grateful for the chance to make some money this summer.  However, the endless cycle of driving, working, driving, programming, driving, homeworking, and sleeping was a little tedious and I started to lose a bit of my sanity.  I subjected my lab partner to sporadic bursts of maniacal laughter and, as a considerable portion of my job entailed removing staples, I started to hoard my mangled staples in a small box in a drawer.  I turned into a strange human hybrid, alternating between Cruella de Vil and Milton from Office Space, depending on my location in the Bay Area.

Point is, I survived those eight weeks.  (Was it that short?)  I am now on a weird, unintentional tour of the eastern part of the Mason-Dixon Line before I return to New York City and all that entails.  At the moment, the charming Mary and Margaret are letting me crash in the suburbs of Philadelphia.  Wednesday I continue my way to Washington DC, Baltimore, Delaware, and finally New York.

But wait!  Before I left, I made sure to indulge in a couple of my favorites: Sol Food, Good Luck Dim Sum, Puentez Taqueria, and, for the first time this summer, Vik's Chaat Corner.

gotta love the hard-core, spandexed biker dudes

Vik's started out in the warehouse district of Berkeley.  When I was younger, I was always shocked by the bustling restaurant after driving through the empty streets.  Since then, they have changed locations to the corner of 4th St and Channing Way and added a market that sells all the ingredients needed for delicious Indian food.

it still has this warehousey feel

Their menu is a little intimidating at first, but everything is more than worth a chance-ordering.  (Apparently "chaat" literally means "to lick," as in, "I will now proceed to lick my plate.")  I recommend the Cholle Bhature (that big puffy thing), the Samosa Cholle (lamb samosas), the plate of Mixed Veg Pakaros (spicy nests of vegetables), Lamb Baida Roti (...lamb roti), Chicken Biryani, and their Mango lassi.  Never, ever forget the mango lassi.

I did not forget the mango lassi

As for the desserts, Gulab Jamun (Indian donut-like things soaked in a sugar syrup... I would compare them to the Greek loukoumades) is always a popular choice.  If you're in the mood for something a little more unusual, I would recommend Kulfi Falooda.  As a disclaimer, it took me the better part of six months AFTER eating this dessert to decide that I liked it and to start to crave it.  That said, kulfi falooda is composed of saffron ice cream that is topped with vermicelli, basil seeds, and a rose syrup.

the kulfi falooda in its elegant to-go container

Everything is decently priced (I bought a meal for 5 for about $25) and the Berkeley-ites that stream in are entertaining as only Berkeley-ites can be.  As an added bonus, Vik's offers vegan and gluten-free options and makes a solid contribution to greenery with compost bins and compostable utensils as well as environment-friendly plumbing and architecture.

Arizmendi Bakery

Arizmendi Bakery is this adorable bakery on 9th Ave in San Francisco between Irving and Judah.  My mom had bought a ridiculous amount of baked good from this place, but this was the first day she took me.  Apparently there was a co-op in Berkeley that later decided to open a bakery based on their cooperative principles and they eventually made their way over to San Francisco.  As of right now, there are five different locations throughout the Bay Area.  While they are not technically a chain, they are each associated with each other through those cooperative principles (this is according to the guy behind the counter that day).

The day I went to this bakery, it was an absolutely stunning day in the city, at least as soon as the pouring rain stopped.  There are benches and chairs outside that provide the perfect setting for some good old fashioned carb-bonding time and inside there is a lot of light and bread lines the walls.

On this particular excursion, I sampled the cheese bread (a delicious whole wheat bread covered in perfectly crisped asiago), a mint double chocolate chip cookie, and the pizza of the day.  As far as I can tell, each day Arizmendi makes a new type of pizza.  The day I went, the toppings were as followed: sautéed mushrooms, parsley, parmesan, spinach, and Rosemary oil.  It was perfect.  I think the pizza was $20, the cookie $2, and the cheese bread somewhere around $3 (maybe?).  Point is, they were all worth it.

my dad didn't trust the baker's pizza-making abilities
so he added pepperoni

Gene's Liquor

Gene's Liquor is on the corner of Taraval and 21st St.  Yes, this place is part liquor store, but they've managed to convert the behind-the-counter area into a sandwich-making area and it is so good.  Like award-winning good.  Plus, I went here so frequently in high school that I had a "usual."  That is one of my proudest accomplishments.

I don't know this person

I always (always) order a turkey-avocado with mayo, lettuce, and provolone.  They heat the sandwich and it is unbelievably good.  It is somewhat of an art to eat the sandwich without letting the copious amount of avocado escape through the bottom, but you'll get through it.

I'm home

I think the sandwich (with avocado) is just short of $8, but I usually throw in some type of beverage for $8 something.  I LOVE THESE PEOPLE.  And even better, Mr. Gene-man (the owner... I call him that because his name isn't actually Gene) remembered me.  After two years.  So proud!

I've been in San Francisco the past two days and it has been absolutely gorgeous:

Puentez Taqueria

I basically live at Puentez Taqueria for the week leading up to when I leave for school in the fall and after Winter Break.  This place is in Montecito Plaza in downtown San Rafael (what?  Is that a Trader Joe's three doors over?) off of 3rd St. and Union St. and they have pretty much ruined all other burritos for me.  It is a family-owned business and I have to wonder what they start to think of me during the week.

I am a food purist (why ruin something that is so pure and delicious even in its most simplest form), so I really really really enjoy a burrito with black beans, rice, and cheese.  Yep, that's it.  Sometimes though, when I'm feeling a bit adventurous, I'll throw caution to the wind and add a bunch of stuff.  This happens rarely.  But still, the grilled chicken, boiled chicken, guacamole, different salsas, and vegetable mix are all good.

HEAVEN

I would recommend a burrito and a cup of horchata, which is ridiculously cheap and ridiculously delicious (it is homemade).  Last time I think the whole meal cost me about $6.

horchata

If you're not in San Rafael, Gordo's (yes, this translates to "Fatty's") is somehow familially related to Puentez but they have more locations: three in San Francisco - Clement St., 9th Ave, Geary Blvd. - and three in the East Bay - Telegraph Ave., Solano Ave., College Ave.  All of these places are worth the effort and the prices are more or less the same.

Marin Greek Festival

the dancers
(particularly the astounding Alexis)

Go to the Greek Festival!  The music is fantastic, the people are wonderful, the dancing is splendid, and the food is to die for.  Seriously, this food is the food that I compare all other Greek food to (and everything else always falls short).  It ends tomorrow and won't be back until next year, so get on it!

Just to explain a little, the Marin Greek Festival is an annual event that the Nativity of Christ Greek Orthodox Church puts on every year.  This is actually the fortieth festival (since 1971).  Anyway, the festival takes place at the church.  The inside/rec room is full of food and various merchants selling everything from gorgeous earrings to ouzo candy (SO. GOOD.).  Outside they sell more food and there are tons of tables under the trees and live music.  The church also participates in many folk dance festivals throughout the year, so every hour or so one of their dance groups dances traditional Greek dances decked out in full, handmade, traditional Greek costumes.  This year their eldest group won second place at FDF (the folk dance festival) so they are clearly fantastic.  Make sure you go!

the desserts 

too many things to name
(including dolmathes and pilafi)

tiropita and souvlaki

the youngest dance group

galaktobouriko and baklava

The Garden House Cafe

Two friends of mine, the lovely Mary and Margaret, introduced me to this place about a year ago (18 months ago?) as a cheaper alternative to Angelina's Catering Co. (another cute but pricier cafe on California St. and 23rd Ave.).  The Garden House Cafe is on Clement St. between 32nd and 33rd Ave - close to the Legion of Honor and fantastic views of the city, the ocean, and Golden Gate Bridge.  I recently returned for a cup of coffee and a croissant when Java Beach Cafe was too crowded (shocker).

Inside the cafe, there are booths, small tables, nooks, crannies, and bookshelves.  Dear Lord, the bookshelves.  As far as I can tell, loyal patrons leave much-loved copies of books for others to enjoy.  (I most recently spotted a copy of Jane Austen's Persuasion.)  Thus, The Garden House Cafe seems like the perfect place to nest and read a book as the infamous (and cherished) San Francisco fog rolls into town.  Better yet, for those perfect days when the sun is shining, there is a patio behind the shop with mini-statues and little tables to enjoy your meal.

As for food, the cafe offers an array of hot and cold beverages and sandwiches, all reasonably priced.  They even offer discounted refills!  (Cough, Java Beach, cough.)  More importantly, in order to cut the bitterness of the freshly brewed dark roast coffee, they sell a variety of delicious pastries.

Good Luck Dim Sum

A family friend of mine introduced me to this place about five years ago and it is now the dim sum place that I compare to all others.  Good Luck Dim Sum is on Clement St. in San Francisco between 8th Ave. and 9th Ave.  While it may not be the absolute best dim sum place in the city, it is definitely the cheapest.  They have everything you could ever need.  Except maybe bubble tea, but that's alright.  Most dumplings go for around $1.60/3 pieces and it's incredibly difficult to spend more than $10 on food for two people without getting sick.

look at all the boxes that will soon be filled with food
and will then go out into the world!

The shop itself isn't too much (it is another one of those hole-in-the-wall places) and I'd recommend taking the food to go and driving to Golden Gate Park or Ocean Beach or something.  And most of the people who work there aren't especially friendly, but they have the awesome task of preparing dim sum for the world so we can forgive anything.

SO MUCH GOODNESS

Pisticci

Pisticci is another Italian restaurant in the Morningside Heights/Columbia Area.  It's on La Salle St. between Broadway and Claremont Ave.  The restaurant is really cute and they have a little patio area out in the front that is incredibly nice in the sun.  So far, I've really enjoyed brunch (nutella con pane, what what) and desserts here, but if you are interested in dinner, I would recommend just going around the corner to Bettalona instead.  The one time I had dinner here, I enjoyed the meal, but I thought I could have made something almost as good for much less of the price (I think I got the fettucine al funghi).

That said, my lovely friend Margaret and I communed over some coffee and dessert on Saturday and it was quite pleasant.  We each got an iced caffelatte and then split a frangelico chocolate mousse.  It was a lovely treat to take a break from finals and relax in the sun/intermittent rain.

everything is so nice and summer-like!

The iced coffee was as it should be, refreshing and flavorful without being two sweet.  The chocolate mousse was yummy, too.  The frangelico was more of a subtle taste and the chocolate was the main flavor, but at the end of the day, is that really a problem?  Plus, the raspberries, whip cream, and mint are all classics.

Room Service

The last time I went here, I was still recovering from my concussion (and telling people I head-butted someone in a bar fight.  Don't get on my bad side), and this place made it close to being all better.  That's right, people; this place can almost cure a brain-bruising.  It is easily the best Thai food in the city, and the best Thai food I've ever had.  Just the other night I went again with Ariana, Caitlin, and Susan and we got to sit next to the chandelier.  (You will get the significance of this when - not if - you go here.  Anyone who can tell me what material encases the chandelier gets a price.  Again, go.  You'll see what I mean.)

Room Service is a Thai restaurant in Hell's Kitchen, on 9th Ave. between 47th St. and 48th St.  From the outside it doesn't look like much, but inside the decor is chic and adorable.  The restaurant itself is not very wide but very long and decorated with tiles, mirrors, and chandeliers.  As for the service, everyone is perfectly nice, but you might have to wait a bit if the restaurant is crowded.

Their food.  Oh dear God, their food.  Everything I've ever ordered there was amazing.  Something to know: they have a lunch special that is basically a steal.  Starting at $6.90, you get one of their lunch dishes with a side of Jasmine rice, PLUS a free appetizer.  The price varies depending on what you order (I recommend the Lychee and Shrimp Fried Rice or the Ginger and Lemongrass Chicken), but the most expensive item is around $14.  The Jasmine rice isn't included with rice and pasta dishes, but I can accept that.

Appetizers.  I've tried the spring rolls (perfectly drizzled in a plum sake sauce), the shrimp and chicken dumplings (yumyumyum), and the coconut-battered calamari (basically like calamari onion rings but they come with a dipping sauce that can only be described as a sweat-and-sour salsa).  Each dish is reasonably priced and worth it.

spring rolls ($3.20/four spring rolls)

As for entrées My personal favorite is the Pineapple Fried Rice.  I've ordered it maybe seven times now, a couple times with tofu and once with mixed seafood.  One thing I will say: their tofu is not spectacular.  While it is perfectly edible and protein-enriched, it is not fall-to-your-knees-and-thank-the-lord-JESUS good.  My sister tried the Pumpkin Curry Chicken and almost cried with joy.  Other favorites are the Pad Thai and the Pad See Ew (like the Pineapple Fried Rice, you can choose between tofu, chicken, vegetable, shrimp, salmon, filleted fish, mixed seafood, maybe something else...).  The entrées range from $8.90 to $15 or $16.

pineapple fried rice with tofu

pad thai

The drinks are a little more expensive.  Beers are about $5.50, cocktails around $9-$12, with something for everyone in between.  For the more adventurous and lychee-inclined, I'd be jealous of any lychee drink: the lychee mojito, the lychee sangria, the lychee mimosa.  While the drinks can be more expensive than the food, from what I've seen, they are all extremely reasonable with their proportions.  Meaning the mojitos come in a full mixing glass (those ones that are about a pint).  For non-drinkers, the Thai Iced Tea is fantastic and the hot teas are also yummy.

the table next to us had what looks like a pomegranate mojito
and a lychee mojito

Sorry about the quality of the photographs.  It is a restaurant whose lighting (or lack thereof) foils the combination of even my cheap camera and photography skills.  Also, this place is perfect for before (or after) going to see a show!